Be careful about walking into a liquor store or bar and asking for this ultra-luxurious tequila by its name, lest you be taken literally and in fact, be given some actual “bad stuff.” To be sure, this three-year-old buttery smooth and silky extra añejo is inappropriately named, with a sarcastic wink at the vagaries of colloquial slang. But when entrepreneur Darren Enenstein was given a glass of this artisanal nectar in Mexico, its overwhelming notes of caramelized agave, soft vanilla and butterscotch completely captured his palate. “This is bad stuff,” he proclaimed to his companions, meaning, of course, that it was spectacular. Double distilled, first in stainless alembics, then in a copper pot stills and aged in medium-toasted new French oak barrels, it should be reserved for the finest Baccarat snifter. Bad stuff, indeed!

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